Red Hook: Brooklyn’s Urban Seaport Village

Once you step on its cobblestone streets, glimpse Valentino Pier’s vistas,or even whiff its briny air, Red Hook will reel you in.

BY JEREMY KLEIN

This is Red Hook   The PlaceThe Place

The tale of New York City is countless chapters long, undergoing an ad infinitum cycle of revisions and addendums. As such, there is always time for a rise-and-fall story arc to shoot upward again. In seaside Red Hook, an ethos of getting back off the mat is integral to the area’s perpetual charm, making it more than a mere contender. Down along Brooklyn’s coast — across Buttermilk Channel from Governors Island and within waving distance of the Statue of Liberty — this remarkable neighborhood has cultivated an identity like few others across NYC’s sprawling reach. To know Red Hook is to love it, so let’s waste no more time on the former so we can get right to the latter.

The Place

Time tried to forget Red Hook, but it’s not the neighborhood’s style to go down without a fight. It keeps a low profile, figuratively and literally: the closest thing you’ll find to a tower is the Red Hook Grain Terminal, a 12-story waterfront grain elevator at the foot of Henry Street Pier. Bypassed by subway construction in the 20th century, today’s Red Hook is a last stand of the low-rise industrial waterfront that helped fashion New York as a global economic powerhouse. Its main drag, along Van Brunt Street, feels more like a sleepy New England fishing village than a business district within a global city. The streets here go quiet earlier than most, leaving Red Hook’s cobblestone lanes with a surreal level of tranquility — especially on weeknights. A lack of high-rises affords unobstructed views of the starry night sky, not to mention the lights of bobbing tugboats and Staten Island’s hillsides twinkling off the water. Much of Red Hook resides in buildings that have stood since its heyday and accordingly retain sought-after period details — think exposed brick, woodwork, concrete floors, etc. — that can never be recreated. Among Red Hook’s more distinct vintage structures are its three “stores,” or storehouses, some dating to before the Civil War. The extant brick buildings — the Beard and Robinson Stores, the Merchant Stores, and the Red Hook Stores — are almost hypnotic in design, sporting infinite-seeming rows of extra-large arched windows. Today, this triad has been spun off into numerous functions: loft residences, studio spaces, a winery, and more.

Although the commercial spaces largely share a common brand, Red Hook’s housing stock is eclectic and varied. Townhouses here are often revitalized interpretations of familiar forms, renovations of 19th- and 20th-century builds that bring things into the modern era yet remain aesthetically true. Many of these are Red Hook originals, pleasantly quirky and imbued with nautical themes interwoven into the area’s vernacular. Gleaming modern condos add a further dimension to the offerings, frequently housed in new developments offering many amenities. There are a few certified, capital-H Historic parts of Red Hook. Van Dyke Street is the site of the city-landmarked, c. 1859 Brooklyn Clay Retort and Fire Brick Works Storehouse. If you can’t decipher that mouthful, know that this place was instrumental in manufacturing illuminating gas (pre-Edison developing his electric light bulb) and flame-resistant industrial material (eventually utilized as an architectural component in areas like Ridgewood around the early 20th century). It’s another visually striking edifice, sporting a dark gray schist facade and basilica-inspired elements like a trio of arched entrances and a bull’s-eye window overlooking Van Dyke. Befitting Red Hook’s water-reliant history, the neighborhood’s two landmarks on the National Register of Historic Places are currently asea. The Mary A. Whalen is a c. 1938 bell boat tanker — controlled from its engine room via telegraph signals from the bridge — perma-docked near the Atlantic Basin, a rare find surviving in its original configuration. Meanwhile, the Lehigh Valley Railroad Barge No. 79 is, well, a barge. This flat-bottomed vessel was part of the Erie Canal’s lighter fleet, steered by workers with long oars to transfer goods to and from moored ships.

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New York City Nabs Stretch of Brooklyn Coastline to Redevelop

Cargo warehouses at the Red Hook Container Terminal, with Downtown Brooklyn in the background. Photographer: Michael Lee/Moment RF

The city will take control of 120 acres from Brooklyn Bridge Park to Red Hook to develop a neighborhood around a modernized port.

New York City will take control of 120 acres of Brooklyn’s coastline, intending to develop a rugged patch of land into housing, retail, green space, and a modern, environmentally friendly port.

The no-cash deal, which will be announced Tuesday, represents the city government’s biggest real estate transaction in terms of physical size in at least two decades. The redevelopment zone stretches more than a mile, from the southern edge of Brooklyn Bridge Park down to the Red Hook neighborhood, and in some places a block inland. Most of that land is currently controlled by the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey.

As reported by Bloomberg.com